In recent years, the vodka-reeking bars of old have been replaced by a clutch of attractive traditional restaurants, like the Bakowo Zohylina in Zakopane.In a pattern that has become familiar all around the world, the local gorale Tatra highlanders, whose distinctive black-hat and embroidered-wool costume is for working use, not just for the tourists sometimes seem to regard concrete blocks with huge satellite dishes on the roof as the definition of progress. The Tatras' own traditions are, however, strongly maintained a respect for tradition is still part of the social fabric here. The village of Chochol?esembles an architectural museum interesting, but artificial in atmosphere. But there is also a widespread local pride in traditional architecture which remains grubbily real.Rooms can be rented in many of the old wooden cottages, which provided cheap and hospitable bed-and-breakfast accommodation even in the Communist era. The spartan hostels have changed little, which is probably just as well; they offer a mixture of simple-but-clean small bedrooms and astonishingly cheap dormitories.
Other forms of accommodation have, however, changed dramatically. The expensive hotels that survived Communism (like the unspeakable Kasprowy in Zakopane) should be ignored at all costs. But there are comfortable new hotels, too, like the Litwor in Zakopane niche luxury, at a fraction of the price that it would cost in the West.Better still, for alpine bliss, is to stay in villages outside Zakopane, where you can find extraordinary comfort in the midst of fabulous walking country. Orzel, on the southern edge of the village of Koscielisko, was opened by an artist couple from Krakow a few years ago. Artists have always gravitated to the Tatras: the painter-playwright Witkacy made his home here at the beginning of the 1900s and designed some of the region's most notable buildings, including his own home and the Jaszczur? chapel.Orzel is within easy walking and cycling distance of many of the best local trails in the area.
It also boasts a jacuzzi with superb views; from inside the hot tub, you can gaze out on to the peaks of Giewont and Suchy Wierch that tower over the valley. Admittedly, climbing the mountains is enjoyable on its own account. But the secret truth is that dreamily gazing on to the mountain-peaks, while lying back in the jacuzzi and, of course, feeling virtuous because of the hard day's or few days' walking you have just been through is the purest pleasure of all. Could there be a more perfect mix? Traveller's guide Getting there LOT Polish Airlines (0845 601 0949. www.lot ) flies daily from Gatwick to Krakow; fares from about £190 return until 14 June. Alternatively, combine a flight to Vienna on Buzz ( www.buzzaway , 0870 240 7070) with a bus to Bratislava and trains/buses across the Polish border.Accommodation Orzel, Koscielisko (00 48 18 207 0650) and Litwor, Zakopane (00 48 18 201 2739) offer B&B from about £30.Further informationZakopane tourist office: 00 48 18 201 2211; Polish National Tourist Office, London: 020-7580 8811.Guide booksGuide to Hiking in Poland and Ukraine (Bradt Guides, £11.95) and Rough Guide to Poland (£11.99) Good maps can be purchased locally.. Within the Square Mile, they say that there is no such thing as a free lunch.
