Pick up a detailed trail map (99p) at the Chester Visitor Centre. Forty buildings representing Chester's architectural heritage have been chosen by residents, covering every period in the city's history, from the Nine Houses (11) – tiny timber and sandstone cottages built as almhouses in the mid-17th century, to the Art Deco Odeon Cinema (12), which was designed in 1936.Take a rideWhile away an hour or so, with a cruise on the River Dee. Boats run every 15 minutes from Bithell Boats (13), Boating Station, Souters Lane (01244 325 394) from 10am-5pm daily, April to October. The half-hour boat trip costs £4 adults, £3.50 concs and £1.50 children. A two-hour cruise is available from mid-July to September, taking you to Ironbridge through Eaton Estate, the home of the Duke of Westminster and costs £8 adults, £6 concs, £4 children.
After the cruise, you can stroll along the riverside with an ice cream, stopping off to feed the swans and ducks. Lunch on the runIgnore the garish plastic flowers in the window of Chez Jules (14), (69, Northgate Street, 01244 400014), this is a classic brasserie with red check tablecloths, wooden floors and the Tricolore on the wall, just in case you didn't get the message There's a good value set lunch two courses for £5.90 Pudding or cheese is a bargain at £1. Or for a Swedish Working Lunch main course, freshly baked bread and butter, mineral water and coffee for £4.95, two courses for £7, drop by BK at La Boh? (15), 58 Watergate St (01244 313721). Cultural afternoonFrom AD79 Chester, called Fortress Deva by the Romans after the River Dee, was one of the most important garrisons of the Roman Empire. The Roodee (16), Britain's oldest racecourse, is situated on a silted-up area of the Dee where Roman ships once unloaded wine from the Med, while the part-excavated Roman Amphitheatre (17) is thought to be the largest in Britain. To step back in time, visit the Dewa Roman Experience (18), Pierpoint Lane (01244 343407).
Emerge from a Roman Galley into a street where scenes of Roman Chester have been recreated. Window shoppingRadiating out from The Cross are Chester's famous Rows 13th-century half-timbered galleries, with shops and the odd museum and pub hidden away, on two levels. The black and white architecture of the original Tudor buildings and Victorian half-timbered imitations gives the city its distinctive appearance. Chester also lays claim to the oldest shop front in England; the Three Old Arches (19) in Bridge Street. Antiques and collectors' fairs are held throughout the year, but for the real antiques centre, you need to scour Watergate Street and Row (20).An aperitifPlunging into the vaults of Watergates Wine Bar (21) 11-13 Watergate Street, (01244 320515), Gothic brick arches and parquet wooden floors are illuminated by enormous candles. The Old Harkers Arms (22) 1 Russell Street, (01244 344525) is an old warehouse turned into a pub on the banks of the canal. For something a bit sharper, Alexander's Jazz Theatre and Caf?23) 2 Rufus Court (01244 340005) has a Continental seediness.
